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An AFR greater than the NFR and TOL suggests a leak large enough to find either visually, with a pressure tester, or by process of elimination.

 

Steps:

 

1. Locate the leak visually.

Run an inspection mist cycle and walk the nozzle circuit while it is misting. Look for a noticeable difference in mist intensity between adjacent nozzles, or sections misting poorly or not at all. This is the most direct indication of a leak being present.

2. Segment nozzle circuit branches if the leak still isn’t visible.

If there’s no obvious visual difference in performance between nozzles:

• • Choose a branch or section to temporarily remove for testing and block it off with a plug.
  • Adjust the controller’s nozzle count (NOZ) down by the number of nozzles on the plugged branch, so it matches the actively misting nozzle count, otherwise the test will be inaccurate.
  • Run a manual mist cycle and compare the AFR to the original baseline:
    • If AFR dropped, the leak is in the removed branch.
    • If the change is minimal (less than 5) or none, that branch is not the source. Re-add it and test the next branch.
  • Once a leaking branch is identified, re-add it, run an inspection mist, and fix the leak(s) found. Reset the controller’s nozzle count back to normal after this process is completed.

3. Replace underground tubing with above-ground tubing if the leak is in a buried section.

Buried tubing is hard to inspect visually and a common source of hidden leaks. Even when buried deep underground, root growth and other elements can cause to the destruction of buried tubing.

• • Choose a section of underground tubing and disconnect it from the circuit at each end that it is above ground.
  • Run a temporary line of above-ground tubing in its place.
  • Run a manual mist cycle and compare the AFR to baseline:
    • If AFR dropped, the leak is in that buried section.
    • If the change is minimal or none, a different buried section is the likely source, repeat with another buried run.
  • Once identified, either replace the underground tubing, or for a temporary fix, leave the above ground tubing in place until time can be made for the buried tubing replacement.
    • This approach works best when only a small amount of the circuit is underground; for extensively buried circuits, prioritize the pressure-tester and branch-segmentation steps first.

Break the loop and isolate one branch of the circuit. Adjust the NOZ count to match the new branch and test again.

 

4. Fix and confirm.

Repair any leaking tubing or fittings found, then run a manual mist cycle (hold Up + Down together) and compare the new AFR to baseline. There should be a noticeable drop in the AFR compared to the previous higher reading.

5. Repeat as needed.

If Error 3 occurs again after the fix, the circuit likely has more than one leak. Repeat the visual/pressure-tester check until Error 3 no longer appears and mist intensity looks normal across all nozzles.

 

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How it should work:

At the end of a mist cycle, when the controller stops the motor (and pump), the pressure in the line is relieved by a small amount of fluid flowing back through the auto-drain elbow into the tank. Because the fluid is incompressible, not much fluid has to leave the lines for the pressure to fall. The pressure should decay very quickly and minimize the time spent in the pressure range that causes nozzle dripping.

Scenarios that can induce dripping:

1. The check valve in the nozzle is working as it should, but the pressure in the nozzle circuit isn’t decaying quickly.  Something is restricting the fluid from traveling back into the misting unit through the auto-drain valve to relieve the pressure. The most common causes are:
   • There is a kink in the line between the unit and the dripping nozzles
   • The drum cover causes kink a in the nozzle circuit line that restricts flow
   • The agitation valve closed if HOLD time is too short
   • The agitation valve has failed and is only partially opening.  If this is the cause, the unit would mist while in agitation mode.
   • A check valve has been installed in the line (not necessary with our system).
2. The pressure in the nozzle circuit is decaying quickly, but there is something wrong with the internal check valve of the nozzle, causing it to stay open at a pressure that it is designed to close at.  Possible causes for this phenomenon are:

• • The valve is not aligned with the orifice and cannot seal it. This can be due to grit/dirt getting jammed internally or swelling/distortion of the check valve (caused by incompatibility between the insecticide and the seal material).
    • Cleaning and Rebuilding Nozzle Tips
    • What do I do about clogged nozzles?
  • The spring of the internal check valve is too light

The best way to test is to install an in-line pressure tester next to a dripping nozzle and mist the unit.  When the unit ends the mist cycle, observe the pressure decay on the gauge at the same time you watch the nozzle.  The pressure in the line should drop from an operating mist pressure (230 – 250 psi) to around 30 psi within 1 – 2 seconds.  Visibly, the nozzle should go from atomizing to off during that period.  From there, it should take a further 5 seconds for the pressure to decay to 5-10 psi.

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If a nozzle circuit is installed correctly, and the nozzles are not fouled, the average flow rate should be in the 40 – 50 ml/minute range.  Below about 30 ml/min, the mist is not projected well.  It doesn’t drift around the property, and the systems lose effectiveness.  Check out these photos comparing the mist pattern and density at different flow rate.

Potential Cause:

• The nozzles are clogged.
• The pump is worn and failing:
  • Rotor blades are scored and the pump isn’t producing enough pressure to achieve normal flow.
  • In drum units, when the volume in the drum is low, rather than misting, the pump is using some of the mist cycle to prime itself.
• The internal bypass on the pump is set too low
• The nozzle count in the controller is higher than the number of nozzles actually installed.

Solution:

Look at the level/flow rate chart on the Operations tab on iMistAway.com

If the flow rate line shows a gradual decline, the probable cause is clogged nozzles.  You can restore the flow rate by replacing the nozzle tips with new or cleaned/rebuilt nozzle tips.  See Cleaning and Rebuilding Slimline Nozzle Tips.

Install a nozzle circuit filter to prevent it from happening again.  See our Nozzle Circuit Filter Video.

If the flow rate shows a more precipitous decline, the probable cause is a worn/failing pump and you’ll need to replace the pump.

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Usually the problem is that the filters inside the nozzles tips are fouled, although in some cases the orifice of the nozzle is clogged by scale from hard water. The dirt you’ll frequently see on the outside of the tip of a clogged nozzle is cosmetic and results from dirt and dust sticking to the tip after poor projection of mist.

This article discusses how to clean the slimline nozzle tips and rebuild them to restore healthy flow and performance to a system.

Cleaning Slimline Nozzle Tips

Tools:

Slimline Nozzle Wrench Set (MistAway Part # 25070)

Shaker bottle or Vibrating bowl (if you plan to clean a lot of nozzle tips)

Detergent like Simple Green or a descaling agent like CLR

Strainer and Toothbrush

A.  Use the slimline nozzle wrenches to disassemble the nozzle tips.  Retain the metal tip, vortex pin and chambers and discard the filter and ball-spring check valve.

B.  In the shaker bottle or vibrating bowl, make up a solution of 50% water and 50% detergent or descaling agent (if hard water is a problem). Soak the metal components for about 2 hours, shaking occasionally.  Do not let the components soak for much longer than that or you may risk damage to the red o-rings that seal the nozzle when it is reassembled.

C.  Use the toothbrush to remove any remaining dirt/residue from the ridges on the outside of the tip and use the strainer to rinse the components in water. Then, let them air dry.

Rebuilding Slimline Nozzle Tips

Parts:

Slimline Ball-Spring Check Valve (MistAway Part #10197)

For single chamber nozzle tips only, Slimline Nozzle Filters (MistAway Part #10196)

We recommend rebuilding the two-chamber nozzle tips with just a new ball-spring check valve and without the internal nozzle filter. Leave that chamber empty.

For the older-style single chamber slimline tips, you’ll need to include the nozzle filter because it is integral to the proper function of the check valve.

As part of restoring flow to your nozzle circuit, and to significantly increase the useful life of your newly rebuilt nozzle tips, we highly recommend installing a cartridge-style nozzle circuit filter with a replaceable element that mounts to the misting unit.  For a Gen 3, it is MistAway Part #29040 for a Gen 1.3, it is MistAway Part #29013.

The filter element has many magnitudes more filtration capacity than the filters downstream in the slimline nozzle tips.  While we can’t guarantee that you’ll never have to rebuild and replace the odd fouled nozzle tip again, the nozzles will perform like new ones for much longer than they would otherwise.

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Usually, the root cause is biologic growth in the drum or batch tank.  The scum or gel is picked up by the pump, cut into small pieces and sent into the nozzle circuit where it fouls the nozzles.

This is an exploded view of a two-chamber slimline nozzle tip.  The role of the filter is designed to protect the ball-spring check valve and orifice from fouling.

In some cases, the orifice of the nozzle becomes clogged, but usually the problem is that the filters inside the nozzle tip are fouled.

There is a two-step solution to this problem

1. Install either new tips (MistAway Part #10195) or cleaned and rebuilt nozzle tips on the circuit.  See our article on Cleaning and Rebuilding Slimline Nozzle Tips.
2. Install a cartridge-style nozzle circuit filter with a replaceable element that mounts to either a Gen 3 (MistAway Part #29040) or Gen 1.3 (MistAway Part #29013) with a bracket.

The filter element has many magnitudes more filtration capacity than the filters downstream in the slimline nozzles.  While we can’t guarantee that you’ll never have to rebuild and replace the odd fouled nozzle tip again, the nozzles will perform like new ones for much longer than they would otherwise.

For more information, watch our Nozzle Circuit Filter Video.

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WARNING!

AIR TRAPPED IN THE FILTER DUE TO IMPROPER INSTALLATION AND SYSTEM STARTUP COULD CAUSE VIOLENT RUPTURE OF THE FILTER HOUSING RESULTING IN SEVERE PERSONAL INJURY!

FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY.

• Do not remove Pressure Relief Valve Assembly
• Before installing filter or replacing element, ensure nozzles are misting, there are no kinks or blocks in the nozzle circuit and the pump pressure does not exceed 250 psi.
• Fill filter housing completely with water.
• If necessary, adjust pump pressure to a maximum of 250 psi.

Time:  5 minutes

Tools:

• Phillips screwdriver
• Flathead screwdriver (to adjust pump pressure)

Gen 1.3 55 Gal Kit – (PN #29013)

Gen 1.3 125 Gal Kit – (PN 29125)

Gen 3 Retrofit Kit – (PN #29030)
 

Gen 3 (New) Kit – (PN #29040)
 

1.  Before installing filter or replacing element, ensure nozzles are misting, there are no kinks or blocks in nozzle circuit, and the PUMP PRESSURE DOES NOT EXCEED 250 PSI!

2.  Mount filter head to bracket using 4 included screws.

If Gen 1.3, mount bracket (with attached filter) to gray ring on drum.

• Position bracket at angle to drum ring as shown.
• Press bracket onto ring with one hand while pushing filter toward drum with the other.

If Gen 3, mount bracket (with attached filter) to right wall of misting unit.

• Retrofit Gen 3 – hangs from sidewall and secured with set screw.
• New Gen 3 – mounts to right sidewall with screws.

3.  Open filter housing and confirm O-ring is seated in groove at the top of housing.

If missing, flip over the filter head and look there.

4.  Fill filter housing completely with water!

5.  Position filter element in the center of the housing and screw filter housing onto filter head.

6.  Direction of flow is important.  Connect 1/4″ tubing from misting unit to the port on the pressure relieve valve and from “OUT” to the nozzle circuit.

• If Gen 1.3, leave enough slack tubing on both sides to be able to remove filter from drum and set it on the ground when you remove the drum lid for service.
• Remove any 1/4″ inline filters that may have been previously installed and verify that there are no kinks in tubing that could cause pressure buildup.

7. Execute a MIST and, if necessary, adjust pump pressure to a MAXIMUM OF 250 PSI!

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The post Nozzle Circuit Filter Video appeared first on TechSelfHelp.

WARNING!

AIR TRAPPED IN THE FILTER DUE TO IMPROPER INSTALLATION AND SYSTEM STARTUP COULD CAUSE VIOLENT RUPTURE OF THE FILTER HOUSING RESULTING IN SEVERE PERSONAL INJURY!

FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY.

• Before installing filter or replacing element, ensure nozzles are misting, there are no kinks or blocks in the nozzle circuit and the pump pressure does not exceed 250 psi.
• Fill filter housing completely with water.
• If necessary, adjust pump pressure to a maximum of 250 psi.

Gen 1.3 55 Gal Kit – (PN #29013)

Check the element with each service visit and replace when the entire filter wall is dirty.  Plan on replacing the element at least annually, and potentially more often for large nozzle circuits.
 

Time:  5 minutes
Tools:  Flathead screwdriver to adjust pump pressure
Parts:  Replacement nozzle circuit filter element (#16020 – 5 pack)

1.  Before replacing element, ensure nozzles are misting, there are no kinks or blocks in the nozzle circuit and the PUMP PRESSURE DOES NOT EXCEED 250 PSI!

2.  Unscrew housing from filter head and discard used filter element.

• Support filter head and bracket with one hand and turn housing clockwise with the other.
• If necessary, relieve pressure by removing tubing from port on unit.

2.  Ensure o-ring is in good condition and is seated in groove at top of housing.* 

*If o-ring is swollen (and you don’t have a new o-ring), seat as much as you can in the groove before screwing the housing back onto the filter head.

3.  Ensure filter housing is completely filled with fluid!

4.  Position new filter element in the center of the housing and screw housing back onto filter head.

5.  Execute a MIST and if necessary, adjust pump pressure to a MAXIMUM of 250 PSI! 

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