Symptoms:

• Error 3 on controller/High AFR in Data menu
• No Visible Leak
• Difficult to reproduce Error 3 while testing on-site

Record Info and Run Troubleshooting Tests:

1.  Before running ANY mist cycle, record the AFR that caused the Error 3

• The AFR value can be found by going to the “DATA” menu and looking for “AFR”.
  • AFR stands for the Average Flow Rate (per nozzle) during a mist.
• Run a short inspection mist cycle until all nozzles are misting, then stop the inspection by hitting the red “MENU” button.
• Run a manual mist cycle by holding down the “UP” and “DOWN” arrows simultaneously while in the main menu.
• After completion of the manual mist, check and compare the new AFR to the original AFR that caused the error 3.
  • If the misting unit no longer displays error 3 after the manual mist mist, proceed to Test 2
  • If the AFR remains the same and caused another error 3, proceed to our article on (Leak Diagnosis and Troubleshooting Link).

2.  Reduce Post-Mist HLD (Hold) Time

• Because this type of leak usually can’t be found on the initial service visit, the following setting that governs error 3 will be adjusted.
  • Find “TOL” in the SETUP menu and adjust it to 100.
• This adjustment will create a window for the misting unit to operate normally while buying time for the leak to grow and become visible. The unit should eventually encounter an error 3 again, but at that point the leak path should have expanded and be easier to troubleshoot.

The post Troubleshooting Error 3: Line-Fill Leaks appeared first on TechSelfHelp.

How it should work:

At the end of a mist cycle, when the controller stops the motor (and pump), the pressure in the line is relieved by a small amount of fluid flowing back through the auto-drain elbow into the tank. Because the fluid is incompressible, not much fluid has to leave the lines for the pressure to fall. The pressure should decay very quickly and minimize the time spent in the pressure range that causes nozzle dripping.

Scenarios that can induce dripping:

1. The check valve in the nozzle is working as it should, but the pressure in the nozzle circuit isn’t decaying quickly.  Something is restricting the fluid from traveling back into the misting unit through the auto-drain valve to relieve the pressure. The most common causes are:
   • There is a kink in the line between the unit and the dripping nozzles
   • The drum cover causes kink a in the nozzle circuit line that restricts flow
   • The agitation valve closed if HOLD time is too short
   • The agitation valve has failed and is only partially opening.  If this is the cause, the unit would mist while in agitation mode.
   • A check valve has been installed in the line (not necessary with our system).
2. The pressure in the nozzle circuit is decaying quickly, but there is something wrong with the internal check valve of the nozzle, causing it to stay open at a pressure that it is designed to close at.  Possible causes for this phenomenon are:

• • The valve is not aligned with the orifice and cannot seal it. This can be due to grit/dirt getting jammed internally or swelling/distortion of the check valve (caused by incompatibility between the insecticide and the seal material).
    • Cleaning and Rebuilding Nozzle Tips
    • What do I do about clogged nozzles?
  • The spring of the internal check valve is too light

The best way to test is to install an in-line pressure tester next to a dripping nozzle and mist the unit.  When the unit ends the mist cycle, observe the pressure decay on the gauge at the same time you watch the nozzle.  The pressure in the line should drop from an operating mist pressure (230 – 250 psi) to around 30 psi within 1 – 2 seconds.  Visibly, the nozzle should go from atomizing to off during that period.  From there, it should take a further 5 seconds for the pressure to decay to 5-10 psi.

The post Dripping Nozzles: Diagnosis and Troubleshooting appeared first on TechSelfHelp.

If a nozzle circuit is installed correctly, and the nozzles are not fouled, the average flow rate should be in the 40 – 50 ml/minute range.  Below about 30 ml/min, the mist is not projected well.  It doesn’t drift around the property, and the systems lose effectiveness.  Check out these photos comparing the mist pattern and density at different flow rate.

Potential Cause:

• The nozzles are clogged.
• The pump is worn and failing:
  • Rotor blades are scored and the pump isn’t producing enough pressure to achieve normal flow.
  • In drum units, when the volume in the drum is low, rather than misting, the pump is using some of the mist cycle to prime itself.
• The internal bypass on the pump is set too low
• The nozzle count in the controller is higher than the number of nozzles actually installed.

Solution:

Look at the level/flow rate chart on the Operations tab on iMistAway.com

If the flow rate line shows a gradual decline, the probable cause is clogged nozzles.  You can restore the flow rate by replacing the nozzle tips with new or cleaned/rebuilt nozzle tips.  See Cleaning and Rebuilding Slimline Nozzle Tips.

Install a nozzle circuit filter to prevent it from happening again.  See our Nozzle Circuit Filter Video.

If the flow rate shows a more precipitous decline, the probable cause is a worn/failing pump and you’ll need to replace the pump.

The post Low Nozzle Flow Rate Warning appeared first on TechSelfHelp.

Usually the problem is that the filters inside the nozzles tips are fouled, although in some cases the orifice of the nozzle is clogged by scale from hard water. The dirt you’ll frequently see on the outside of the tip of a clogged nozzle is cosmetic and results from dirt and dust sticking to the tip after poor projection of mist.

This article discusses how to clean the slimline nozzle tips and rebuild them to restore healthy flow and performance to a system.

Cleaning Slimline Nozzle Tips

Tools:

Slimline Nozzle Wrench Set (MistAway Part # 25070)

Shaker bottle or Vibrating bowl (if you plan to clean a lot of nozzle tips)

Detergent like Simple Green or a descaling agent like CLR

Strainer and Toothbrush

A.  Use the slimline nozzle wrenches to disassemble the nozzle tips.  Retain the metal tip, vortex pin and chambers and discard the filter and ball-spring check valve.

B.  In the shaker bottle or vibrating bowl, make up a solution of 50% water and 50% detergent or descaling agent (if hard water is a problem). Soak the metal components for about 2 hours, shaking occasionally.  Do not let the components soak for much longer than that or you may risk damage to the red o-rings that seal the nozzle when it is reassembled.

C.  Use the toothbrush to remove any remaining dirt/residue from the ridges on the outside of the tip and use the strainer to rinse the components in water. Then, let them air dry.

Rebuilding Slimline Nozzle Tips

Parts:

Slimline Ball-Spring Check Valve (MistAway Part #10197)

For single chamber nozzle tips only, Slimline Nozzle Filters (MistAway Part #10196)

We recommend rebuilding the two-chamber nozzle tips with just a new ball-spring check valve and without the internal nozzle filter. Leave that chamber empty.

For the older-style single chamber slimline tips, you’ll need to include the nozzle filter because it is integral to the proper function of the check valve.

As part of restoring flow to your nozzle circuit, and to significantly increase the useful life of your newly rebuilt nozzle tips, we highly recommend installing a cartridge-style nozzle circuit filter with a replaceable element that mounts to the misting unit.  For a Gen 3, it is MistAway Part #29040 for a Gen 1.3, it is MistAway Part #29013.

The filter element has many magnitudes more filtration capacity than the filters downstream in the slimline nozzle tips.  While we can’t guarantee that you’ll never have to rebuild and replace the odd fouled nozzle tip again, the nozzles will perform like new ones for much longer than they would otherwise.

The post Cleaning and Rebuilding Slimline Nozzle Tips appeared first on TechSelfHelp.

Usually, the root cause is biologic growth in the drum or batch tank.  The scum or gel is picked up by the pump, cut into small pieces and sent into the nozzle circuit where it fouls the nozzles.

This is an exploded view of a two-chamber slimline nozzle tip.  The role of the filter is designed to protect the ball-spring check valve and orifice from fouling.

In some cases, the orifice of the nozzle becomes clogged, but usually the problem is that the filters inside the nozzle tip are fouled.

There is a two-step solution to this problem

1. Install either new tips (MistAway Part #10195) or cleaned and rebuilt nozzle tips on the circuit.  See our article on Cleaning and Rebuilding Slimline Nozzle Tips.
2. Install a cartridge-style nozzle circuit filter with a replaceable element that mounts to either a Gen 3 (MistAway Part #29040) or Gen 1.3 (MistAway Part #29013) with a bracket.

The filter element has many magnitudes more filtration capacity than the filters downstream in the slimline nozzles.  While we can’t guarantee that you’ll never have to rebuild and replace the odd fouled nozzle tip again, the nozzles will perform like new ones for much longer than they would otherwise.

For more information, watch our Nozzle Circuit Filter Video.

The post What do I do about clogged nozzles? appeared first on TechSelfHelp.

WARNING!

AIR TRAPPED IN THE FILTER DUE TO IMPROPER INSTALLATION AND SYSTEM STARTUP COULD CAUSE VIOLENT RUPTURE OF THE FILTER HOUSING RESULTING IN SEVERE PERSONAL INJURY!

FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY.

• Do not remove Pressure Relief Valve Assembly
• Before installing filter or replacing element, ensure nozzles are misting, there are no kinks or blocks in the nozzle circuit and the pump pressure does not exceed 250 psi.
• Fill filter housing completely with water.
• If necessary, adjust pump pressure to a maximum of 250 psi.

Time:  5 minutes

Tools:

• Phillips screwdriver
• Flathead screwdriver (to adjust pump pressure)

Gen 1.3 55 Gal Kit – (PN #29013)

Gen 1.3 125 Gal Kit – (PN 29125)

Gen 3 Retrofit Kit – (PN #29030)
 

Gen 3 (New) Kit – (PN #29040)
 

1.  Before installing filter or replacing element, ensure nozzles are misting, there are no kinks or blocks in nozzle circuit, and the PUMP PRESSURE DOES NOT EXCEED 250 PSI!

2.  Mount filter head to bracket using 4 included screws.

If Gen 1.3, mount bracket (with attached filter) to gray ring on drum.

• Position bracket at angle to drum ring as shown.
• Press bracket onto ring with one hand while pushing filter toward drum with the other.

If Gen 3, mount bracket (with attached filter) to right wall of misting unit.

• Retrofit Gen 3 – hangs from sidewall and secured with set screw.
• New Gen 3 – mounts to right sidewall with screws.

3.  Open filter housing and confirm O-ring is seated in groove at the top of housing.

If missing, flip over the filter head and look there.

4.  Fill filter housing completely with water!

5.  Position filter element in the center of the housing and screw filter housing onto filter head.

6.  Direction of flow is important.  Connect 1/4″ tubing from misting unit to the port on the pressure relieve valve and from “OUT” to the nozzle circuit.

• If Gen 1.3, leave enough slack tubing on both sides to be able to remove filter from drum and set it on the ground when you remove the drum lid for service.
• Remove any 1/4″ inline filters that may have been previously installed and verify that there are no kinks in tubing that could cause pressure buildup.

7. Execute a MIST and, if necessary, adjust pump pressure to a MAXIMUM OF 250 PSI!

The post Installing Nozzle Circuit Filter appeared first on TechSelfHelp.

The post Nozzle Circuit Filter Video appeared first on TechSelfHelp.

WARNING!

AIR TRAPPED IN THE FILTER DUE TO IMPROPER INSTALLATION AND SYSTEM STARTUP COULD CAUSE VIOLENT RUPTURE OF THE FILTER HOUSING RESULTING IN SEVERE PERSONAL INJURY!

FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY.

• Before installing filter or replacing element, ensure nozzles are misting, there are no kinks or blocks in the nozzle circuit and the pump pressure does not exceed 250 psi.
• Fill filter housing completely with water.
• If necessary, adjust pump pressure to a maximum of 250 psi.

Gen 1.3 55 Gal Kit – (PN #29013)

Check the element with each service visit and replace when the entire filter wall is dirty.  Plan on replacing the element at least annually, and potentially more often for large nozzle circuits.
 

Time:  5 minutes
Tools:  Flathead screwdriver to adjust pump pressure
Parts:  Replacement nozzle circuit filter element (#16020 – 5 pack)

1.  Before replacing element, ensure nozzles are misting, there are no kinks or blocks in the nozzle circuit and the PUMP PRESSURE DOES NOT EXCEED 250 PSI!

2.  Unscrew housing from filter head and discard used filter element.

• Support filter head and bracket with one hand and turn housing clockwise with the other.
• If necessary, relieve pressure by removing tubing from port on unit.

2.  Ensure o-ring is in good condition and is seated in groove at top of housing.* 

*If o-ring is swollen (and you don’t have a new o-ring), seat as much as you can in the groove before screwing the housing back onto the filter head.

3.  Ensure filter housing is completely filled with fluid!

4.  Position new filter element in the center of the housing and screw housing back onto filter head.

5.  Execute a MIST and if necessary, adjust pump pressure to a MAXIMUM of 250 PSI! 

The post Replacing Nozzle Circuit Filter Element appeared first on TechSelfHelp.

1.  Adjust the pump bypass to produce 250 psi at the unit, never higher.

• Watch the video, Basics – The Pump (7:41)

2.  Each nozzle should operate in the “Target Misting Zone” between 200 – 250 psi, and mist 40 – 50 ml per minute.

• Watch the video, Basics – The Nozzles (7:36)

3.  Tee the nozzle circuit as close to the unit as possible, and divide the flow.

• Watch the video, Basics – Tubing and Pressure Drop (6:52)

4.  Don’t install more than 35 nozzles in series on a run of 1/4″ tubing.

5.  If you have to put more than 35 nozzles on a run, use a parallel 3/8″ line to boost the pressure at the middle of the run.

• Watch the video, Basics – Tubing and Pressure Drop 201 (9:56)
• See Boosting Pressure with 3/8″ Tubing

6.  Try to loop the nozzle circuit if the nozzle runs from the unit are very different in length and nozzle count.

7.  For runs greater than 30′ with no nozzles, use 3/8″ tubing instead of 1/4″ tubing.

The post Pressure Engineering Rules appeared first on TechSelfHelp.

However, in cases where it’s not possible to install a nozzle circuit that has 20 nozzles, we can make a few minor adjustments to the misting unit to reach the operating window of the flow meter. To do this, we will install a second auto-drain valve (SKU 10427) onto the internal plumbing of the unit, this time downstream of the flow meter. Because the auto-drain valve outputs about 40 nozzles worth of fluid on its own, it will allow us to easily enter the operating window of the flow meter.

Retrofitting the Gen 1.3 Misting Unit:

• Remove the tubing connecting the pump outlet fitting to the agitation valve inlet tee, per image 1
• Cut a ~12-inch piece of 1/4″ tubing
  • Push one end into the pump outlet fitting, per image 2
  • Leave the open end of the agitation valve inlet tee unconnected for now

Image 1: Normal Gen 1.3 Pump/Valve Connections

Image 2: Retrofitted Pump Connections

• Disconnect the tubing on either side of the flow meter.
• Curve the 1/4″ tubing connected to the pump outlet around the agitation valve
  • Insert the free end into the inlet fitting of the flow meter, per image 3
• Cut a 2.5-inch piece of 1/4″ tubing
  • Insert one end into the outlet fitting of the flow meter
  • Push the other end into a 1/4″ union tee
• Drill a 3/8″ hole through the lid directly underneath where the union tee is located
  • Feed a 2-foot-long piece of 1/4″ tubing through the hole and attach an end to the union tee, per image 4
  • Attach the second auto-drain valve to the other end of the tube (inside the tank)

Image 3: New Flowmeter Connections

Image 4: Plumbing Second Auto Drain Valve

• Attach another piece of 1/4″ tubing to the remaining open end of the union tee
  • Wrap this tube around the backside of the motor, per image 5
  • Insert tube into open end of the agitation valve inlet tee
• Finally, connect a piece of 1/4″ tubing between the agitation valve’s outlet fitting and the 1/4″ bulkhead on the side of the chassis

Image 5: Gen 1.3 Retrofitted

Calibrating the Controller:

Step 1: Programming Controller’s Nozzle Count:

You will need to increase the nozzle count (Setup menu -> “NOZ”) in the controller by 40 to account for the extra auto drain valve that we’ve added. So, for example, if you have 12 nozzles at the customers home, you would input 52 nozzles into the controller’s nozzle count. This will account for the extra flow rate of the second auto drain valve to give accurate flow rate readings.

Step 2: Programming Controller’s Tank Volume

Next, we will need to adjust the tank volume to account for the “extra” volume that the controller thinks it’s misting during each mist cycle, even though only 12 nozzles are actually misting. To do this, adjust the “Tnk” setting in the Setup menu of the controller by using the following formula:

Where:

• Tnk (total) = The adjusted Tnk volume that must be input into the controller
• Volume (actual) = The actual volume of the tank = 55 gallons
• Nozzle Count (A.D.V.) = Auto-drain valve = 40 nozzles
• Nozzle Count = The actual # of nozzles in the nozzle circuit

Simplifying the formula further, you get:

Example: For a nozzle circuit that has 12 nozzles, the formula will look like this:

The post Calibrating Gen 1.3 Misting Unit for Small Nozzle Circuits appeared first on TechSelfHelp.