• Visible Leak
• Portion(s) of nozzle circuit not misting adequately
• Drum’s actual fluid level runs empty before the controller’s volume gauge

Troubleshooting Tests:

1.  Visually Inspect Nozzle Circuit To Find Leak

• Run an inspection mist cycle by going to the controller’s “Maintenance” menu, looking for “INS“, and holding down the “green” button. Take note of/record the pressure that is being read by the pressure gauge on the misting unit.
• Walk around and inspect nozzle circuit while unit is misting.
• Look for difference in mist intensity between adjacent nozzles or sections of nozzles that are misting poorly/not misting at all.
• Check for and fix any leaks in tubing or fittings around these areas.
• Run another inspection mist cycle.
• Compare the pressure at the misting unit and the mist intensity of the nozzles to the previous mist.
• Repeat Test 1 as necessary until pressure and mist intensity of nozzles meets expectation.

2.  Segment Nozzle Circuit Branches To Find Leak

• Run an inspection mist cycle and take note of/record the pressure that is being read by the pressure gauge on the misting unit.
• Stop the inspection mist cycle and choose the branch or section of the nozzle circuit that is not misting well to temporarily remove for testing purposes.
• Block off the chosen branch of the nozzle circuit using a metal plug.
• Run another inspection mist cycle and observe if pressure rises at the misting unit:
  • If pressure goes up to expected levels (230 psi – 250 psi), then your leak can be found at the branch that was blocked off for testing.
  • If pressure does not change, then the leak is in another area of the nozzle circuit and Test 3 will have to be repeated with a different branch.
  • If pressure only marginally goes up, the nozzle circuit may have leaks in multiple branches. Re-add the currently removed branch to the nozzle circuit, run an inspection cycle, and look closely for any potential leaks to fix.
• Repeat Test 2 as necessary until pressure and mist intensity of nozzles meets expectation.

3.  Replace Buried Tubing With New Tubing Above Ground

• This test is ideal for nozzle circuits that have a small amount of tubing that runs underground.
• Run an inspection mist cycle and take note of/record the pressure that is being read by the pressure gauge on the misting unit.
• Choose a section of tubing that is underground and disconnect it from the rest of the nozzle circuit at each end.
• Connect a new line of tubing in its place above the ground.
• Run another inspection mist cycle.
• Compare the pressure at the misting unit and the mist intensity of the nozzles to the previous mist.
  • If pressure or nozzle performance improves, that section of buried tubing has a leak.
  • If there is no improvement in either metric, then other sections of buried tubing must be tested.
• Fix any leaks or replace the chosen buried line with new tubing.
• Repeat Test 3 as necessary at other sections of the nozzle circuit that are buried until pressure and mist intensity of nozzles meets expectation.

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Nothing to Pump:

• Level of liquid in drum is at or below pump intake/filter

Failure to Pump:

• Clogged intake filter – common, but not usually the culprit
• Insecure pump intake – common on new systems
• Pump failure – common, but not on new systems
• Pump priming issues – not common
• Controller relay failure – very uncommon
• Motor failure – very uncommon
• Low voltage at outlet – not common

Pumping but not generating pressure in nozzle circuit

• Pump bypass too open – not common
• Auto Drain Valve is off or has failed – not common
• Agitation Valve not opening during mist cycle – not common
• Leak in nozzle circuit – common
• Too many nozzles for pump – not common

Pumping and generating pressure, but no mist

• Blockage/kink in nozzle circuit – not common
• Clogged nozzles – common

See Gen 1.3:  Troubleshooting Nozzles Not Misting

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• System Mode is set to OFF or REM (or ON) and should be set to AUTO EVERYDAY or AUTO-CUSTOM. See Controller:  Setting System Mode
• There are no AUTO MIST cycles defined. See Controller:  Setting AUTO MIST Cycles
• The controller has calculated that the unit is empty and needs to be refilled.
  • See Gen 1.3:  Controller displays EMP and unit will not mist
  • See Gen 3:  Controller displays EMP CAR and unit will not mist
• Unit has suspended operating for some reason.  See Controller displays NOZ00, SKIP, ERR# or SUS and unit will not mist
• The unit is plugged into the outlet but the display is blank.
  • See Gen 1.3: Blank Controller Display
  • See Gen 3: Blank Controller Display

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• Actual flow rate is greater than the controller Target Flow Rate (NFR entered into the DATA Menu) – which may also point to a leak or siphon in the nozzle circuit.
• Actual nozzle count is greater than the controller nozzle count (NOZ in the SET-UP Menu)
• The controller tank volume (TNK in the SET-Up Menu) is larger that the volume of the actual tank.
• The controller Starting Level (bars entered into LEVEL in MAINTENANCE Menu) was higher than the actual starting level.

Displayed Level is less than Actual Level
Possible Causes:

• Actual nozzle count is less than the controller nozzle count (NOZ in the SET-UP Menu)
• Actual flow rate is less than the Target Flow Rate (NFR entered into the DATA Menu) – which may suggest clogged nozzles.
• If the mist cycles are very short, the effective flow rate may be less than the Target Flow Rate (NFR entered into the DATA Menu)
• The controller tank volume (TNK in the SET-Up Menu) is smaller that the volume of the actual tank.
• The controller Starting Level (bars entered into LEVEL in MAINTENANCE Menu) was lower than the actual starting level

See Gen 1.3:  How Tank Level Display Works for more explanation

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• The displayed level of solution remaining in the drum is calculated using factors entered into the controller during the setup process – Tank Size, Starting Level, Nozzle Count, Target Flow Rate
• New Level = Old Level – (nozzle count x target flow rate x mist duration)
• The unit will stop misting when the displayed level is zero
• Because it is a calculated rather than measured value, there may be a difference between the displayed level and the actual level if the factors in the calculation do not reflect the actual configuration of the system .  See Gen 1.3:  Displayed Tank Level does not match Actual Level
• It is possible for the unit to run dry if the actual level is zero, but the displayed level is positive.  Running dry does not typically cause pump failure, but will reduce the lifetime of the pump.

For Gen 1.3 units with leak detection:

• The displayed level of solution remaining in the drum is also calculated, but the calculation uses the actual flow out of the pump measured with the leak detection flow meter.
• New Level = Old Level – measured flow out of the pump during the previous mist
• The unit will stop misting when the flow meter detects essentially no flow during a mist cycle.
• It is less likely for there to be a difference between the displayed level and the actual level in a unit with leak detection, but it is still possible if Tank Size or Starting Level are incorrect.
• It is also possible for there to be a difference between Displayed and Actual Levels if the nozzle circuit is very small or if the mist cycles are very short.  See Gen 1.3:  Leak Detection and TOLerance

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Figure 1 White Remote Transmitter

Figure 2 White Remote Receiver

Common Root Causes:

• Unit does not recognize remote transmitter. See Controller: “Learning” the iMist2-ready Handheld Remote Transmitter
• System Mode is set to OFF. Reset System mode to AUTO mode or REM (or ON). See Controller: Setting System Mode
• Remote mist duration is set to 0 seconds. See Controller: Using the Remote
• Dead batteries in remote transmitter. Replace batteries and retry.
• Unit has suspended operating for some reason.  See Controller displays NOZ00, SKIP or ERR# and unit will not mist
• The controller has calculated that the unit is empty and needs to be refilled.
  • See Gen 1.3: Controller displays EMP and unit will not mist
  • See Gen 3: Controller displays EMP CAR and unit will not mist

Additional Root Causes:

• • Remote transmitter or receiver has failed. Two tests can be run to check if the remote receiver has failed:
    • Ensure the receiver is connected and power cycle the unit. Pay close attention to the controller’s screen as it boots up following the power cycle. The message “IM2 ON” confirms that the controller recognizes a working receiver. If “IM OFF” is shown, the receiver is either not plugged in or must be replaced due to failure.
    • If the remote transmitter cannot be paired with the receiver after the first test, go to the DATA menu in the controller and look for the “M” setting. This setting displays the ID of a working radio module on the receiver. If the controller display matches the following image, the radio module has failed and the receiver must be replaced.

Figure 3: Radio Module Failure Code

• If the remote receiver passes both tests, the remote transmitter has failed and needs to be replaced.

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Figure 1 Black Remote Transmitter

Figure 2 Black Remote Receiver

Potential Root Causes:

• Unit does not recognize remote transmitter. See Controller:  LRNing the Remote Transmitter
• System Mode is set to OFF. Reset System mode to AUTO mode or REM (or ON). See Controller:  Setting System Mode
• Remote mist duration is set to 0 seconds. See Controller:  Using the Remote
• Dead batteries in remote transmitter. Replace batteries and retry.
• Unit has suspended operating for some reason.  See Controller displays NOZ00, SKIP or ERR# and unit will not mist
• The controller has calculated that the unit is empty and needs to be refilled.
  • See Gen 1.3:  Controller displays EMP and unit will not mist
  • See Gen 3:  Controller displays EMP CAR and unit will not mist
• Remote transmitter or receiver has failed.  Known good transmitter is necessary to determine which part has failed.

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• Confirm the zone kit has been properly installed and the controller has been programmed.  See Gen 1.3: Zone Kit instructions or Gen 3+ Zone Kit Instructions
• Confirm the nozzle circuits for Zone 1 and Zone 2 are independent and not tied together.
• Confirm the misting unit is not plugged into an extension cord, which can result in insufficient power being available for the unit.

Problem:  System mists from Zone 1 when it should be misting from Zone 2.

• Confirm that the nozzle circuits for Zone 1 and Zone 2 are not tied together.
• Examine the connector from the zone kit that plugs into the back of the controller and ensure the wire leads are secure in the connector and that the connector is plugged securely into the controller.
• Confirm that the unit is not plugged into an extension cord and test for insufficient voltage:
  • Using a digital voltmeter, check the voltage at the outlet. If possible, check the voltage while the unit is running. If the voltage is less than about 120V, you should consult an electrician.
  • If no digital voltmeter is available, disconnect only the motor from the back of the controller and run an inspection cycle for Zone 2 (MAINT Menu -> INS 2). Allow the controller to count down for a few seconds as the valves open (you will hear loud snaps), then plug the motor back into the controller. The unit should immediately begin misting zone 2. If it does, the unit does not have enough voltage to switch to zone 2 during normal operation and you should consult an electrician.
• If sufficient voltage at the outlet is confirmed and Zone 2 fails to mist during the motor test, the valve in the zone kit has failed mechanically and must be replaced.

Problem: System mists from both zones at the same time

• Disconnect both Zone 1 and Zone 2 nozzle circuit tubing from the zone kit, then run a test mist for both zones:
  • If both zones still “mist” at the same time, the valve in the zone kit has failed mechanically and must be replaced
  • If the zones “mist” sequentially as expected, inspect the nozzle circuits for each zone to ensure they are not tied together.

Problem: System does not mist from either zone

• Disconnect both Zone 1 and Zone 2 nozzle circuits from the zone kit and run a test mist for each zone.
  • If the zones “mist” as expected, inspect the nozzle circuits for blocked or kinked lines or clogged nozzles.
• If neither zone “mists”, disconnect tubing from the unit to the zone kit and run a test mist.
  • If fluid is coming out of the unit as expected, the valve in the zone kit has failed mechanically and must be replaced.
  • If no fluid comes out of the unit, please consult the following troubleshooting articles: Gen 1.3 Nozzles not Misting or Gen 3+ Nozzles not misting.

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