• Visible Leak
• Portion(s) of nozzle circuit not misting adequately
• Drum’s actual fluid level runs empty before the controller’s volume gauge

Troubleshooting Tests:

1.  Visually Inspect Nozzle Circuit To Find Leak

• Run an inspection mist cycle by going to the controller’s “Maintenance” menu, looking for “INS“, and holding down the “green” button. Take note of/record the pressure that is being read by the pressure gauge on the misting unit.
• Walk around and inspect nozzle circuit while unit is misting.
• Look for difference in mist intensity between adjacent nozzles or sections of nozzles that are misting poorly/not misting at all.
• Check for and fix any leaks in tubing or fittings around these areas.
• Run another inspection mist cycle.
• Compare the pressure at the misting unit and the mist intensity of the nozzles to the previous mist.
• Repeat Test 1 as necessary until pressure and mist intensity of nozzles meets expectation.

2.  Segment Nozzle Circuit Branches To Find Leak

• Run an inspection mist cycle and take note of/record the pressure that is being read by the pressure gauge on the misting unit.
• Stop the inspection mist cycle and choose the branch or section of the nozzle circuit that is not misting well to temporarily remove for testing purposes.
• Block off the chosen branch of the nozzle circuit using a metal plug.
• Run another inspection mist cycle and observe if pressure rises at the misting unit:
  • If pressure goes up to expected levels (230 psi – 250 psi), then your leak can be found at the branch that was blocked off for testing.
  • If pressure does not change, then the leak is in another area of the nozzle circuit and Test 3 will have to be repeated with a different branch.
  • If pressure only marginally goes up, the nozzle circuit may have leaks in multiple branches. Re-add the currently removed branch to the nozzle circuit, run an inspection cycle, and look closely for any potential leaks to fix.
• Repeat Test 2 as necessary until pressure and mist intensity of nozzles meets expectation.

3.  Replace Buried Tubing With New Tubing Above Ground

• This test is ideal for nozzle circuits that have a small amount of tubing that runs underground.
• Run an inspection mist cycle and take note of/record the pressure that is being read by the pressure gauge on the misting unit.
• Choose a section of tubing that is underground and disconnect it from the rest of the nozzle circuit at each end.
• Connect a new line of tubing in its place above the ground.
• Run another inspection mist cycle.
• Compare the pressure at the misting unit and the mist intensity of the nozzles to the previous mist.
  • If pressure or nozzle performance improves, that section of buried tubing has a leak.
  • If there is no improvement in either metric, then other sections of buried tubing must be tested.
• Fix any leaks or replace the chosen buried line with new tubing.
• Repeat Test 3 as necessary at other sections of the nozzle circuit that are buried until pressure and mist intensity of nozzles meets expectation.

The post Leak Diagnosis and Troubleshooting (No Leak Detection) appeared first on TechSelfHelp.

Symptoms:

• Error 3 on controller/High AFR in Data menu
• No Visible Leak
• Fluid level in drum is higher than reflected in the volume gauge on the controller

Record Info and Run Troubleshooting Tests:

1.  Before running ANY mist cycle, record the AFR that caused the Error 3

• The AFR value can be found by going to the “DATA” menu and looking for “AFR”.
  • AFR stands for the Average Flow Rate (per nozzle) during a mist.
• Run a short inspection mist cycle until all nozzles are misting, then stop the inspection by hitting the red “MENU” button.
• Run a manual mist cycle by holding down the “UP” and “DOWN” arrows simultaneously while in the main menu.
• After completion of the manual mist, check and compare the new AFR to the original AFR that caused the error 3.
  • If the misting unit no longer displays error 3 after the manual mist mist, proceed to Test 2
  • If the AFR remains the same or caused another error 3, please proceed to our article on Leak Diagnosis and Troubleshooting.

2.  Reduce Post-Mist HLD (Hold) Time

• Find “HLD” in the DATA menu and reduce the duration of the hold time to 10 seconds by setting HLD to 100 (the controller counts this time in tenths of a second).
• Run two manual mist cycles and check the AFR after the mist.
  • If the first manual mist causes an error 3, disregard it and clear it. The change to the HLD time from above won’t take effect until the second manual mist cycle.
• If the AFR went down AND no error 3 was displayed, then that will confirm that the original error 3 was caused due to the original hold time and verticality of the nozzle circuit.
  • Note: If error 3 returns after the second mist but the AFR has gone down, continue adjusting the HLD time down and repeating the test. Two manual mists must be run each time the HLD time is adjusted.
  • As it is an important setting for avoiding dripping nozzles, adjust the HLD time until the longest duration that does not cause an error 3 is found.

The post Troubleshooting Error 3: Elevated Nozzle Circuits appeared first on TechSelfHelp.

• Error 3 on controller/High AFR in Data menu
• Visible Leak
• Portion(s) of nozzle circuit not misting adequately
• Insecticide’s fluid level runs empty faster than expected

Record Info and Run Troubleshooting Tests:

1.  Before running ANY mist cycle, record the AFR that caused the Error 3

• The AFR value can be found by going to the “DATA” menu and looking for “AFR”.
  • AFR stands for the Average Flow Rate (per nozzle) during a mist.
• Run a short inspection mist cycle until all nozzles are misting, then stop the inspection by hitting the red “MENU” button.
• Run a manual mist cycle by holding down the “UP” and “DOWN” arrows simultaneously while in the main menu.
• After completion of the manual mist, check and compare the new AFR to the original AFR that caused the error 3.
  • If the AFR remains the same/caused another error 3, proceed to Test 2.
  • If the misting unit no longer displays error 3 after a mist AND the AFR goes down by at least “10”, then proceed to our article on (Line-Fill Leaks Article Link).

2.  Visually Inspecting Nozzle Circuit To Find Leak

• Run an inspection mist cycle.
• Walk around and inspect nozzle circuit while unit is misting.
• Look for difference in mist intensity between adjacent nozzles or sections of nozzles that are misting poorly/not misting at all.
  • You can also use an in-line pressure tester (Part #28000) to check for noticeable drops in pressure between adjacent nozzles/branches to help determine the location of a leak.
• Check for and fix any leaks in tubing or fittings around these areas.
• Run a manual mist cycle.
  • Observe mist intensity of nozzles now that a leak has been fixed.
  • If error 3 returns once the manual mist cycle is complete, that would indicate that the nozzle circuit contains at least one more leak.
• Double check the AFR in the DATA menu after the manual mist and compare to the AFR from Test 1.
  • The AFR should at least have gone down after fixing the first leak.
• Repeat Test 2 as necessary until error 3 no longer appears after a manual mist and the mist intensity of the nozzles meets expectation.
• If there are no obvious visual differences in performance between nozzles, proceed to Test 3.

3.  Segmenting Nozzle Circuit Branches To Find Leak

• Choose a branch or section of the nozzle circuit to temporarily remove for testing purposes.
• Block off the chosen branch of the nozzle circuit using a plug.
  • Make sure to adjust the controllers original nozzle count by the number of nozzles on the plugged test branch to match the number of actively misting nozzles, otherwise this test will be inaccurate.
• Run a manual mist cycle.
  • If error 3 returns once the manual mist cycle is complete, that would indicate that the nozzle circuit likely contains a leak in another branch.
• Double check the AFR in the DATA menu after the manual mist and compare to the AFR from Test 1.
  • If the AFR has gone down, then there is a leak in the current branch that was removed for testing.
  • If the AFR saw minimal (less than 5) or no change, then there is no leak in the current branch that was removed for testing.
• Re-add the “test” branch to the nozzle circuit, run an inspection mist, and fix any leaks found.
  • Adjust the controller’s nozzle count back to normal once the test branch is re-added.
• Repeat Test 3 as necessary by choosing other branches until error 3 no longer appears after a manual mist.

4.  Replace Buried Tubing With New Tubing Above Ground

• This test is ideal for nozzle circuits that have only a small amount of tubing that runs underground.
• Choose a section of tubing that is underground and disconnect from the rest of the nozzle circuit at each end.
• Run a new line of tubing in its place above the ground.
• Run a manual mist cycle.
  • If error 3 returns once the manual mist cycle is complete, that would indicate that a different buried section of the nozzle circuit has a leak.
• Double check the AFR in the DATA menu after the manual mist and compare to the AFR from Test 1.
  • If the AFR has gone down, then there is a leak in the current buried branch that was removed for testing.
  • If the AFR saw minimal (less than 5) or no change, then there is no leak in the current buried branch that was removed for testing.
• Fix any leaks or replace the chosen buried line with new tubing.
• Repeat Test 4 as necessary at other sections of the nozzle circuit that are buried until error 3 no longer appears after a manual mist.

The post Leak Diagnosis and Troubleshooting (w/Leak Detection) appeared first on TechSelfHelp.

Figure 1 White Remote Transmitter

Figure 2 White Remote Receiver

Common Root Causes:

• Unit does not recognize remote transmitter. See Controller: “Learning” the iMist2-ready Handheld Remote Transmitter
• System Mode is set to OFF. Reset System mode to AUTO mode or REM (or ON). See Controller: Setting System Mode
• Remote mist duration is set to 0 seconds. See Controller: Using the Remote
• Dead batteries in remote transmitter. Replace batteries and retry.
• Unit has suspended operating for some reason.  See Controller displays NOZ00, SKIP or ERR# and unit will not mist
• The controller has calculated that the unit is empty and needs to be refilled.
  • See Gen 1.3: Controller displays EMP and unit will not mist
  • See Gen 3: Controller displays EMP CAR and unit will not mist

Additional Root Causes:

• • Remote transmitter or receiver has failed. Two tests can be run to check if the remote receiver has failed:
    • Ensure the receiver is connected and power cycle the unit. Pay close attention to the controller’s screen as it boots up following the power cycle. The message “IM2 ON” confirms that the controller recognizes a working receiver. If “IM OFF” is shown, the receiver is either not plugged in or must be replaced due to failure.
    • If the remote transmitter cannot be paired with the receiver after the first test, go to the DATA menu in the controller and look for the “M” setting. This setting displays the ID of a working radio module on the receiver. If the controller display matches the following image, the radio module has failed and the receiver must be replaced.

Figure 3: Radio Module Failure Code

• If the remote receiver passes both tests, the remote transmitter has failed and needs to be replaced.

The post Unit not responding to command from white remote transmitter appeared first on TechSelfHelp.

Figure 1 Black Remote Transmitter

Figure 2 Black Remote Receiver

Potential Root Causes:

• Unit does not recognize remote transmitter. See Controller:  LRNing the Remote Transmitter
• System Mode is set to OFF. Reset System mode to AUTO mode or REM (or ON). See Controller:  Setting System Mode
• Remote mist duration is set to 0 seconds. See Controller:  Using the Remote
• Dead batteries in remote transmitter. Replace batteries and retry.
• Unit has suspended operating for some reason.  See Controller displays NOZ00, SKIP or ERR# and unit will not mist
• The controller has calculated that the unit is empty and needs to be refilled.
  • See Gen 1.3:  Controller displays EMP and unit will not mist
  • See Gen 3:  Controller displays EMP CAR and unit will not mist
• Remote transmitter or receiver has failed.  Known good transmitter is necessary to determine which part has failed.

The post Unit not responding to command from black remote transmitter appeared first on TechSelfHelp.

The post Gen 1.3: Troubleshooting ERR2 appeared first on TechSelfHelp.

• Confirm the zone kit has been properly installed and the controller has been programmed.  See Gen 1.3: Zone Kit instructions or Gen 3+ Zone Kit Instructions
• Confirm the nozzle circuits for Zone 1 and Zone 2 are independent and not tied together.
• Confirm the misting unit is not plugged into an extension cord, which can result in insufficient power being available for the unit.

Problem:  System mists from Zone 1 when it should be misting from Zone 2.

• Confirm that the nozzle circuits for Zone 1 and Zone 2 are not tied together.
• Examine the connector from the zone kit that plugs into the back of the controller and ensure the wire leads are secure in the connector and that the connector is plugged securely into the controller.
• Confirm that the unit is not plugged into an extension cord and test for insufficient voltage:
  • Using a digital voltmeter, check the voltage at the outlet. If possible, check the voltage while the unit is running. If the voltage is less than about 120V, you should consult an electrician.
  • If no digital voltmeter is available, disconnect only the motor from the back of the controller and run an inspection cycle for Zone 2 (MAINT Menu -> INS 2). Allow the controller to count down for a few seconds as the valves open (you will hear loud snaps), then plug the motor back into the controller. The unit should immediately begin misting zone 2. If it does, the unit does not have enough voltage to switch to zone 2 during normal operation and you should consult an electrician.
• If sufficient voltage at the outlet is confirmed and Zone 2 fails to mist during the motor test, the valve in the zone kit has failed mechanically and must be replaced.

Problem: System mists from both zones at the same time

• Disconnect both Zone 1 and Zone 2 nozzle circuit tubing from the zone kit, then run a test mist for both zones:
  • If both zones still “mist” at the same time, the valve in the zone kit has failed mechanically and must be replaced
  • If the zones “mist” sequentially as expected, inspect the nozzle circuits for each zone to ensure they are not tied together.

Problem: System does not mist from either zone

• Disconnect both Zone 1 and Zone 2 nozzle circuits from the zone kit and run a test mist for each zone.
  • If the zones “mist” as expected, inspect the nozzle circuits for blocked or kinked lines or clogged nozzles.
• If neither zone “mists”, disconnect tubing from the unit to the zone kit and run a test mist.
  • If fluid is coming out of the unit as expected, the valve in the zone kit has failed mechanically and must be replaced.
  • If no fluid comes out of the unit, please consult the following troubleshooting articles: Gen 1.3 Nozzles not Misting or Gen 3+ Nozzles not misting.

The post Troubleshooting Zone Kit Problems appeared first on TechSelfHelp.

Time:  5 – 10 mins
Tools:

• multi-meter to test presence of voltage at electrical outlet
• Phillips head screwdriver (depending on age of unit)

Parts:  none

1.  Confirm there is suitable AC electrical voltage at the outlet.

Use a multi-meter (or another appliance you know to be working) to test whether there is suitable voltage at the outlet.

2.  Confirm whether the power loss is caused by an electrical short in a unit component.

A.  Remove screws or thumbscrews securing controller into Gen 1.3 plastic cover.

B.  Disconnect all cables from the back of the controller.

C.  Connect the power cable only to the controller (connector labeled “Power In”, cable has a blue dot on the connector.)

D.  If the controller boots up with only the power cable attached, a system component has shorted out.  If it does not boot up, go to Step 3.

• To determine the shorted component, plug all cables back into the controller one at a time.
• After plugging in each cable, confirm controller power still on.  If controller display goes blank, or completely loses power, the last device plugged in is the culprit.  (It typically will be a remote receiver, remote receiver cable or iMistAway module.)

3.  Confirm whether the power loss is caused by a blown fuse.  

A.  Disconnect all cables from the back of the controller.

B.  The fuse over the connector labeled “Motor” is a spare.  Pull it out of its port and visually inspect to ensure the fuse is still intact and no evidence of black marks, i.e., confirm it had not been previously swapped.

C.  Pull the active fuse out of its port, above the connector labeled “Power In” and replace it with the spare fuse.

D.  Reconnect the power cable only to the connector labeled “Power In.”

• If the controller still does not boot up with a new fuse and only the power cable connected, the controller must be replaced.
• If the controller does boot up, determine the reason for the blown fuse in Step 4.

4.  Determine reason for blown fuse.

A.  Plug in only the agitation valve.  On MAINTENANCE menu, execute an INSPECT (or INS1 if zoned) cycle.  Confirm fuse does not blow.  If fuse blows, replace agitation valve.

E.  Plug in MOTOR cable.  Ensure agitation valve is still connected.  Execute INSPECT (or INS1 if zoned) from the MAINTENANCE menu.  If fuse blows, inspect motor cable for chafed wires, particularly at connection to motor.  If cable is OK, replace the motor.

F.  If unit is equipped with a zone kit, plug in zone kit cable, and execute INSPECT ZONE2 (INS 2 from the MAINTENANCE menu).  If fuse blows. replace zone kit.

G.  If the fuse does not blow when running INSPECT with the agitation valve, motor and zone kit (if equipped) connected to the controller, the fuse likely blew due to an electrical power surge.  Unit should operate normally with the new fuse.

Note:  If the spare fuse blew while troubleshooting, you will need to purchase new fuses.  It is not a standard fuse, so purchase it from MistAway, part #10939.

The post Gen 1.3: Blank Controller Display appeared first on TechSelfHelp.

The post Gen 1.3: Controller displays EMP and unit will not mist appeared first on TechSelfHelp.

• System Mode is set to OFF or REM (or ON) and should be set to AUTO EVERYDAY or AUTO-CUSTOM. See Controller:  Setting System Mode
• There are no AUTO MIST cycles defined. See Controller:  Setting AUTO MIST Cycles
• The controller has calculated that the unit is empty and needs to be refilled.
  • See Gen 1.3:  Controller displays EMP and unit will not mist
  • See Gen 3:  Controller displays EMP CAR and unit will not mist
• Unit has suspended operating for some reason.  See Controller displays NOZ00, SKIP, ERR# or SUS and unit will not mist
• The unit is plugged into the outlet but the display is blank.
  • See Gen 1.3: Blank Controller Display
  • See Gen 3: Blank Controller Display

The post Unit not misting automatically appeared first on TechSelfHelp.